It is raining. Heavily. There are gray clouds above me. There is a greyer cloud ridge in the distance slowly closing in – a gray reaper coming to spell the end of the outside for the day. I don my weatherproof coat and set out on this, most mysterious of rambles.
Today’s ramble has a theme. But I am not ready to reveal it just yet. Indeed, it may seem that today is a ‘greatest hits’ of sorts of some of Lucan’s best known locations. But this walk is more of a one-hit-wonder than a greatest hits album. The theme of today’s ramble will come. And so, dog lead in hand, I begin.
My starting point today is the carpark of Ballyowen Castle, where the remains of the 16th century structure have been incorporated into this modern shopping centre. I have written about it before on a previous ramble and had noted how there are legends of tunnels beneath it, as, indeed, there are about many of Lucan’s historic sites. There is a legend told of a priest who hid items in the well here when escaping from soldiers. He then made his escape through the tunnels, emerging at Hermitage (where, it should be said, there really is a cave). It feels apt to begin today’s ramble in a place with an underground history. The aptness will be revealed at the end.
From here, I cross over the Ballyowen Road and make my way down onto Castle Road. I stop a moment to look south over Ballyowen Road. The road here is not straight. The ground undulates, rising and falling like waves. This, from what I understand, is because of glacial ridges that marked the Lucan earth as the glaciers retreated north at the end of the last ice age.
As I walk down Castle Road, I notice that I am walking alongside the Castle Riada estate. Growing up in Lucan, I was more than occasionally disappointed at the unimaginative and untethered names of many Lucan housing estates. Castle Riada, however, appears to have put some thought into its name. Ballyowen Castle is nearby and the Esker Riada, the ancient trackway that follows the glacial ridges from St. Audeon’s Church in Dublin to Clarinbridge in Galway runs near here. In naming itself Castle Riada, there is a serious attempt to weave these houses into the local fabric.
Near the corner of Castle Avenue and Griffeen Way, I notice my greyhound is walking over old dog-paw prints in the concrete of the footpath. These footpaths were laid, I believe, just before the turn of the last century, meaning, in dog years, they are about 161 years old.
I turn the corner onto Griffeen Way, which links one place near the Griffeen to another place near the Griffeen. From one end to the other should be mere minutes. However, my dog loves a good scent and Griffeen Way would appear to be flavour country for dogs. We stop at every post, every tree, every patch of grass, leaving scents behind that will most likely not last as long as the dog prints back around the corner.
From here, we turn right, onto Griffeen Road, and make our way down towards the construction site that is the community centre. The Swimming Pool is due to open this year. Although I cannot swim, it will be great to have a local place for me not to swim in. My kids, on the other hand, will live like otters in the water for weeks at a time once the red ribbon is cut. This is a long overdue facility and will be very welcome locally. I stop to try to take a picture, but through the close mesh fences, it looks rather gloomy.
At the end of the build, I stop a moment at the next entrance into Griffeen Valley park. This was the original entrance to Esker Manor (which itself sat on the site currently occupied by the Community Centre) and – a little piece of local history that you can touch – the green railings of the original entranceway are still here.
From here, I make my way out towards the N4 footbridge, stopping a moment to enjoy the view of St. Finian’s Church. The old village of Esker once existed here. Just before the footbridge, I stop to read the information sign that has been erected explaining the history and importance of the Esker Riada. The road from St. Finians and the footbridge follow it and, when you walk here, you are walking along the same route that other ramblers and travellers have traversed for millennia.
We emerge from the footbridge to the sight of more heavy construction work. The New-New Esker Cemetery is well under way. Walls are finished, buildings are being erected. I can see the outline of what will be the garden of contemplation, complete with stream, in the centre. We walk on. My dog stops to sniff something outside the old cemetery. As I wait, I look up and see the date of 1952 carved into a tree. We pass by the old caretaker’s cottage – not quite a ruin, but not far off either.
The rain has somehow held off as we make our way down the Lucan Newlands Road – down the hill into the village, past James Gandon’s House at Canonbrook. We pass the old priest’s house on the corner across from Courtney’s Pub. Local rumor has it that the council is in talks to buy it. What a wonderful thing it will be if they can! I look along the Lock Road behind it, but can only see as far as the sewer pump station behind the house.
From here, I make my way along the Lucan-Leixlip Road, towards the Demesne. The Tandys, relatives of Napper Tandy, lived along here at the time of the 1798 rebellion. I had read that Lucan was one of the few places outside of Dublin that saw activity during the 1803 Robert Emmet rebellion that followed, with, apparently, the Cavan Militia being called in to arrest local rebels. That, however, is literally all I know about it and, so, I am unlikely to be able to write a Lucan in 1803 ramble any time soon.
Finally, I arrive in the carpark of Lucan Demesne. Through a gate to my right, I can see into the waterworks owned and operated by the council. Have you guessed the theme of today’s ramble? I started with an underground story and I’ll end with one. Today, I followed, as practically as I could, the Route 9B Sewer Line from Ballyowen Castle back to its source here at the Demesne.